除夕夜，家家举宴，长幼咸集，多作吉利话，名曰“年夜饭”，俗称“合家欢”。——顾禄《清嘉录》

对中国人来说，年夜饭有着特殊的意义。它不仅象征着团圆和亲情，从古至今更是一种独有的文化传承。吃年夜饭的传统从何而来？古人除夕的餐桌上都吃些啥？现代人的年夜饭又有哪些讲究？折射出中国人的哪些生活变迁？

年夜饭的历史

年夜饭，特指除夕夜的阖家聚餐。

Specifically, the New Year’s Eve meal refers to the family dinner on Chinese New Year’s Eve.

爆竹声声辞旧岁，烟花朵朵迎新春。又是一年岁末时，神州大地处处洋溢着浓浓的年味儿。家家户户贴春联、福字，将美好憧憬寄托于此。大街小巷张灯结彩，一片欢腾。人们走上街头，谈笑风生，为自家的年夜饭挑选食材。

Around midnight on Chinese lunar New Year’s Eve, amid the setting off of firecrackers, we bid farewell to the old year and greet the new year. We have come to the end of yet another lunar year. Strong festival atmosphere permeates the entire country. Nearly every family is busy sticking Spring Festival couplets and “fu” characters, encoding wishes of a good life. All the streets and alleys are decorated with lanterns and colourful lights, which creates a sea of joy and liveliness. Chatting and smiling, the Chinese people go on a shopping spree for their New Year’s Eve meals.

在农历一年的最后一天里，在外奔波的游子与家人团圆，一家人围坐在餐桌旁，吃饭聊天，尽享天伦之乐。人们会为没有回来的亲人留好座位和餐具，体现团圆之意。纵览中华上下五千年的历史，年夜饭无疑是中国人最看重的家庭宴会，这既是一年辛苦忙碌、辞别旧岁的重要时刻，又饱含除旧布新、祈望来年的特殊意义。

On the last day of a lunar year, even those who are on the road a lot return home for the family reunion. The whole family enjoy the meals, sharing the happiness of a family union and catching up on each other’s recent past. People will reserve seats and tableware for the absent members, which represents reunion. Looking far and wide of Chinese history of 5,000 years, the New Year’s Eve meal is absolutely the most important meal for Chinese people. It’s not only a significant moment when people say goodbye to the busy old year, but also a special time when they look forward to a prosperous new year.

俗话说得好：“打一千，骂一万，三十晚上吃顿饭。”年夜饭是每年春节前的重头戏，不但丰富多彩，而且讲究很多寓意。鱼，寓意着“年年有余”；鸡，寓意着“有计”；年糕，代表人们的工作生活一年比一年提高；火锅，代表来年红红火火。

Just as one saying goes, “No matter how much one has gone through during the past year, they will enjoy a meal on Chinese New Year’s Eve.” The New Year’s Eve meal is a big event before Spring Festival. It not only appears colourful, but also pays much attention to the moral of dishes. The Chinese character for fish sounds the same as abundance and the word for chicken symbolizes ingenuity. Rice cake means that people’s work and life will improve year after year. Hot pot means that the coming year will be more prosperous.

作为中国人一年中“吃得最长的一顿饭”，年夜饭的历史可以追溯至汉代。在那时，年夜饭是一种宗教仪式，旨在纪念神灵和祖先。而到了战火纷飞的近代，一顿饱饭就是最好的年夜饭。只要全家人能在除夕夜吃个饱，就是最大的幸福。

As the grandest meal of a year for the Chinese, the New Year’s Eve meal dates back to the Han Dynasty, when the New Year’s Eve meal was a kind of religious ceremony, meant to worship their gods and their ancestors. However, in modern era of war, a full meal was the best New Year’s Eve meal. If only whole family could have a full meal on Chinese New Year’s Eve, they would feel on top of the world.

时光流转，岁月翩跹。在物质富足的今天，年夜饭虽然不再承载改善伙食的意义，但餐桌上流动的亲情依然厚重，中华儿女对于家的牵挂始终令人动容。

How time flies! Modern Chinese do not have to worry about the shortage of foods and no longer regard the ceremonial meal as a welcome break from their perennial hunger. What is still true is the affectionate exchanges at the table, something that is always touching the heart.

穿越历史的烟尘，经历岁月的洗礼，年夜饭如同一颗明珠，在华夏大地上熠熠闪光，映照出中华儿女对美好生活的殷殷期望。万古同山川，八方异风俗。在中国各方水土的滋养下，年夜饭逐渐与地方特色相融相合，并在不断发展中形成了百花齐放的盛况，构成了一幅绚丽缤纷的新年画卷。

Through the long historical vicissitudes, the New Year’s Eve meal remains a fixed feature of China’s culture, which mirrors Chinese earnest expectations of a good life. The same Chinese land has produced different customs. The various natural environment gives color to the local New Year’s Eve meals, forming a picture in which all local cultures showcase themselves.

各地年夜饭的差异

一山一水一风情，一地一俗一方人。从尽显地方韵味的年夜饭中，我们可感受明月荷花的清丽，亦能领略大漠残阳的壮阔；从颇具民族特色的年夜饭中，我们能饱览五十六个民族相濡以沫的伟大史诗。

Every mountain and river has its charm. Every piece of land and custom raises its people. The bright moon, the fresh lotus flowers or the grandeur of the setting sun on the deserts can be felt in the myriad of meals prepared by the 56 ethnic groups in the country. From the meal which reflects national features, we can feast our eyes on the great epic that tells of national unity.

福建佛跳墙，选用鲍鱼、海参、菌菇等汇聚到一起，加入高汤和福建老酒，文火煨制，荤而不腻，味中有味。江西粉蒸肉，用菜叶做垫，蒸米粉和肉，辅以南瓜、红薯等蔬菜，香味浓郁。

For example, Fujian Fotiaoqiang consists of abalone, sea cucumbers, mushrooms and so on. Along with thick soup and Fujian wine, the ingredients are simmered over mild fire before turning out to be delicious and not fatty.As to Jiangxi Steamed Pork with Rice, people steam rice, meat and vegetables like pumpkins and sweet potatoes over cabbage leaves. The smell of this dish is appetizing.

上海腌笃鲜，将腌制过的鲜肉与新鲜的肉类小火焖炖，配上春笋，汤白汁浓，鲜味浓厚。河北八大碗，用八仙桌上八大碗，七荤一素，取材广泛，鲜醇可口。

In the dish of Shanghai Bamboo Shoot Soup with Fresh and Pickled Streaky Pork, bamboo shoots are stewed with salted pork and fresh pork. The soup is white, thick with a rich taste.Hebei Eight Dishes include seven meat dishes and one vegetable dish. The food selection is widespread and the dishes are tasty.

北京八宝饭，由糯米、糖、桃仁、红枣等烧蒸而成，色泽绚丽，甜香筋软。新疆馕包肉，将当地传统主食馕与新鲜羊肉相结合，既体现宗教风情，又象征幸福吉祥。

Beijing Eight-treasure Rice Pudding is made from glutinous rice, sugar, walnuts, red dates and so on. It looks inviting and tastes sweet and soft.Xinjiang Braised Lamb Chops with Nang, a traditional Xinjiang staple food, shows religious features while symbolizing happiness.

除此之外，我国的南方和北方在年夜饭上也有很大的区别。在中国北方地区，饺子是年夜饭上必不可少的美味，薄薄的一层饺子皮，裹上了各式各样的饺子馅儿，更包进了母亲浓浓的爱意；而中国南方的年夜饭则少不了汤圆，一家人围坐桌前，团团圆圆，热气氤氲中，汤圆的甜意伴着一股暖意汩汩流淌至心底。

Besides, there are great difference between the north and the south in New Year’s Eve meal. In northern China, dumplings are a must for the New Year’s Eve meal. Thin dumpling wrappers made with flour are stuffed with various fillings, and with the mother’s love and care. In southern China, tangyuan is of vital significance for the occasion. As all the family members sit around the table eating tangyuan, the sweet taste goes to the bottom of everyone’s heart with a warm feeling in the cozy atmosphere.

观南北，汤圆软糯香甜、水饺五味俱全，尽显中国幅员辽阔、地大物博；览古今，传统家宴热闹温馨、定制酒席精致便利，诉说时代的发展、人民生活水平的稳步提高。相隔千里终团圆，共坐檀桌前。作为中国家文化的典型代表，年夜饭不仅因广阔的地域而显丰富多彩，更因时光的沉淀而变得愈发异彩纷呈。

From north to south, sweet glutinous tangyuan as well as jiaozi with a variety of flavors testify to China’s vastness and rich resources. Like never before, the warmth of the traditional family feast as well as the delicacy and convenience of customized banquets has indicated the development of the times and the improvement of people’s life. Though thousands of miles apart, family members ultimately reunite and sit together around the table. As a typical feature of the Chinese family culture, the New Year’s Eve meal takes on unique features from the local cultures and its long history.

年夜饭的习俗及演变

祭祖是春节众多习俗中一项必不可少的环节。年夜饭前，洗手焚香，在佛祖灵前虔诚祭拜，祈求保佑全家平平安安，这不仅是人伦孝道的体现，也是民族基因的传承。

Ancestor worship is an essential part of many customs during the Spring Festival. Before the New Year’s Eve meal, washing hands, burning incense and worshiping one’s ancestors in front of Buddha's statue to pray for the safety and prosperity of the whole family in the new year embodies the Chinese core value of filial piety that has been, as it were, written into their genes.

为适应改革开放形势、呈现文化领域的活跃氛围，央视春晚自1983年首次播出，并紧跟时代的脚步不断丰富其形式与内容，一直延续至今。

To represent the liveliness and vitality since China’s reform and opening up started in the late 1970s, China Central Television has been offering the yearly Spring Festival Gala since 1983. It has constantly endeavored to update the form and content of the festivity.

年夜饭后，一家人欢聚电视机前与全国人民一起收看春晚，谈笑风生，其乐融融。这时长辈们也会拿出早已精心准备好的压岁钱，谐音“压祟”，以希望孩子能平平安安度过来年。而今随着时代的变迁，红包也有了形式上的变化，微信红包因其便捷性与趣味性正不断受到更多人的青睐。

After dinner on the lunar New Year’s Eve, all families will gather in front of the TV, expecting to watch the Spring Festival Gala that begins at 20:00 and lasts till midnight. At this time, the elders will also take out the well-prepared New Year's money, which sounds like "suppressing evil", in hope that the children can spend the coming year safely. Nowadays, red envelopes are usually replaced by the electronic version on WeChat.

早在宋代，亲朋好友之间会相互送帖致贺，这就是早期的贺年片。而今，在明信片上写下对家人、朋友最衷心的祝愿也成了当代年轻人互赠祝福的一种方式。

As early as the Song Dynasty, relatives and friends would send each other New Year greetings. This was China’s first New Year card. Now, young people like to send their family and friends some postcards with sincere wishes. Or, more conveniently, they do so on WeChat.

年夜饭也随时代的变迁发生了形式上的变化，由传统的纯手工制作到酒店私人订制再到半成品的购买加工……不仅体现了时代的变化发展，更反映了人们生活水平的提高。

The New Year's Eve meal has also changed with times. Traditionally, all the foods were handmade; today, they can be ordered from caterers, or purchased from shopping malls ready made or half made. This is another indication of the change of times and the improved life.

辞暮尔尔，灯火年年；夜幕降临，华灯初上；点点灯火，灿若星河。一年一度的灯会也是除夕夜的一大看点。灯是光明与前程的象征，除夕夜这天，家家户户张灯结彩，地方政府也会举办灯会庆典等活动以求来年风调雨顺、国泰民安。

Another highlight of Chinese New Year's Eve is the annual lantern festival. When night falls, all the lights are on, shining like stars. The light is a symbol of brightness and prospect. On this particular evening, every household will put on lanterns and festoons, and the local governments will also hold lantern festivals and other activities in anticipation of good weather and peace for the country and the people in the coming new year.

又是一年梅花盛开，雪花飘落，漫天烟火璀璨，遍地万家灯火。这一年到头来的最后一顿饭，看似普普通通，实则饱含着家的温暖与爱的温度，更是成了多少人心头一缕抹不去的乡愁。浓浓的亲情也在这顿饭里不断氤氲、发酵、升腾，拂去了游子们的满身风尘，荡涤了归家人的满心疲惫，抚慰了长辈们的满眼牵挂……家人闲坐，灯火可亲，年夜饭热气腾腾，心里头其乐融融。

At this time of the year, plum blossoms come into bloom in defiance of the bitter cold. Fireworks shine brightly in the air; lights blaze everywhere. The last meal of the year is full of the warmth and the home and the love of the family. For those less fortunate ones who cannot join their family, the meal will invariably evoke the wonderful memory of a family reunion. Deep family affection permeates the home and is strengthened over the meal, driving away unpleasant memories, very comforting. Family members sitting together, lights shining, the New Year's Eve meal steaming, everyone’s heart is brimming over with happiness.

无论年夜饭的形式如何变迁，浓浓的年味始终不减，家的味道始终不变。最后，让我们一起撕开日历的最后一页，彼此道一声“新年快乐！” 冬事未眠，祝我们都好在新的来年！

No matter how the form of the New Year's Eve meal changes, the flavor of Chinese New Year is still strong, and home is still the best place to take a rest and lick one’s wounds.

Let's tear off the last leaf of the old calendar and wish each other a sincere "Happy Chinese New Year!" May all of us have a better life in the coming New Year!

穿越历史的烟尘，经历岁月的洗礼，年夜饭如同一颗明珠，在华夏大地上熠熠闪光，映照出中华儿女对美好生活的殷殷期望。万古同山川，八方异风俗。在中国各方水土的滋养下，年夜饭逐渐与地方特色相融相合，并在不断发展中形成了百花齐放的盛况，构成了一幅绚丽缤纷的新年画卷。

Through the long historical vicissitudes, the New Year’s Eve meal remains a fixed feature of China’s culture, which mirrors Chinese earnest expectations of a good life. The same Chinese land has produced different customs. The various natural environment gives color to the local New Year’s Eve meals, forming a picture in which all local cultures showcase themselves.

指导老师/李萍 梁道华；产品经理/马晨馨 翁焕超 林闻杰；摄影/宋佳玉 张婉妮 肖煜煊 刘芷妍 童萱；新闻体稿/厉嘉婕 吴漪苇 叶羽桐